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Amaryllis Care: Holiday Blooms Indoors (and After Bloom)

Amaryllis care is simple: plant the bulb snug with its top third showing, give it a warm, bright window and water lightly until the stalk takes off. Most bulbs bloom 6 to 10 weeks after planting, so a bulb potted in October or early November can flower for the holidays. Below are the steps from bulb to bloom, plus amaryllis care after bloom so the same bulb flowers again next winter.

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Key takeaways

  • Choose large, firm bulbs. Bigger bulbs usually send up more flower stalks.
  • Use a pot about 1 inch wider than the bulb and leave the top third of the bulb above the soil.
  • Water once after planting, then sparingly until growth shows. Soggy soil rots bulbs.
  • After bloom, keep the leaves growing in sun all spring and summer. They refill the bulb for next year.
  • Amaryllis is toxic to cats and dogs, and the bulb is the riskiest part. Keep it out of reach.
In this post9 sections
  1. What you are really growing
  2. What you need
  3. Amaryllis care indoors, step by step
  4. Amaryllis care after bloom
  5. Mistakes that stop amaryllis from blooming
  6. Variations: waxed bulbs and water vases
  7. Bonus: pet and kid safety with holiday bulbs
  8. Amaryllis supplies
  9. FAQ

What you are really growing

The holiday amaryllis sold in stores is Hippeastrum, a bulb from Central and South America. The true Amaryllis belladonna is a different South African plant, but the common name stuck. Each bulb holds next year's flowers already formed inside it, which is why it blooms so easily the first time.

Your job in year one is to give it warmth, light and not too much water. In year two, the leaves have to rebuild the bulb, and that is where most plants are lost.

Pick bulbs that feel firm and heavy, like a good onion.

What you need

Amaryllis planting supplies

Amaryllis care indoors, step by step

  1. Step 1: Count back from your bloom date

    Most bulbs flower about 6 to 10 weeks after planting, depending on the variety and how warm your home is. For December flowers, plant from about mid-October to early November. Staggering 2 or 3 bulbs a couple of weeks apart gives you a longer show.

  2. Step 2: Plant snug, with the shoulders showing

    Amaryllis likes a tight pot. University of Illinois Extension suggests a pot about 1 inch wider than the bulb, with at least the top third of the bulb above the mix. Spread the roots out, fill around them and firm the mix gently.

  3. Step 3: Water once, then wait

    Water thoroughly after planting and let the extra drain away. Then water only lightly until you see a stalk or leaves, since a bulb with no growth uses very little water. Once growth starts, water when the top inch or two of mix feels dry.

  4. Step 4: Give it warmth and bright light

    Set the pot in your brightest window in a room around 65 to 75°F. Warmth wakes the bulb, and strong light keeps the stalk short and sturdy. In a dim room, the stalk can stretch and flop.

  5. Step 5: Turn the pot every few days

    The stalk leans toward the light as it grows. A quarter turn every 2 or 3 days keeps it straight.

  6. Step 6: Stake tall stalks early

    Once the stalk is about a foot tall, push a thin bamboo stake into the mix a little away from the bulb and tie the stalk loosely with soft twine. Staking before the buds open saves you from a stalk that snaps under the weight of the flowers.

  7. Step 7: Move it somewhere cooler when it blooms

    When the buds show color, move the plant out of direct sun to a cooler spot. Flowers last longer in a room in the low to mid 60s°F, away from heater vents and fireplaces.

A cool hallway or entry keeps blooms going longer than a warm, sunny sill.

Amaryllis care after bloom

Don't throw the bulb away when the flowers fade. With a season of leaves in the sun, it can bloom again next winter. Think of the months after flowering as refilling a battery.

  1. Step 1: Snip off the faded flowers

    Cut each spent flower off where it joins the stalk, before seed pods form. Seed-making uses energy the bulb needs. Leave the green stalk in place until it yellows, since it still feeds the bulb, as Illinois Extension notes.

  2. Step 2: Keep the leaves growing in sun

    Move the pot back to your sunniest window. Water when the top inch or two of mix is dry and feed with a balanced houseplant fertilizer about once a month. The long strap leaves are doing the work now, so never cut them off while they are green.

  3. Step 3: Summer outside if you can

    After your last frost, the pot can go outside on a balcony or patio. Start in filtered light for a week, then give it more sun, working up to about 6 hours. Bring it back inside before the first fall frost.

  4. Step 4: Rest the bulb in early fall (optional)

    A rest isn't required, but it lets you time the next bloom. Stop watering and set the pot in a cool, dark place around 45 to 55°F for about 8 to 12 weeks. Remove the leaves once they yellow and dry. For holiday flowers, start the rest in early September.

  5. Step 5: Wake it up

    After the rest, or as soon as you see a new tip, bring the pot back to a warm, bright window and water thoroughly. Flowers usually follow in about 4 to 6 weeks. Repot only every 3 to 4 years, since amaryllis blooms well when snug.

Mistakes that stop amaryllis from blooming

Common amaryllis problems and fixes
What you seeLikely causeWhat to do
Soft, mushy bulb or a sour smellToo much water before roots grewWater only lightly until growth shows. A rotted bulb rarely recovers.
Tall, floppy stalk that leansToo little light or too much warmthMove it to brighter light, turn the pot and stake early.
Leaves but no flowers the next yearThe bulb didn't refill after bloomingKeep leaves growing in full sun and feed monthly through summer.
Flowers fade within daysA warm room or a spot over a heaterMove the plant somewhere cooler once buds show color.
Red streaks or blotches on leaves and bulbRed blotch, a common fungal diseaseRemove badly spotted leaves, avoid wetting the bulb and give good air flow.

Waxed amaryllis bulbs are dipped in wax and bloom with no pot, soil or water, using the food already stored inside. They make easy gifts, but the wax stops the bulb from rooting, so most gardeners treat them as one-season decorations.

Waxed bulbs need no water at all.

Growing in a vase looks lovely in a bright kitchen. Rest the bulb on pebbles or in a forcing vase so only the roots touch water and the base of the bulb stays dry. A bulb sitting in water rots quickly, and a bulb grown in water alone is usually weaker the next year.

Keep the water line below the bulb, touching only the roots.

Bonus: pet and kid safety with holiday bulbs

This is the part that is easy to overlook. The ASPCA lists amaryllis as toxic to cats and dogs, from lycorine and related compounds. Signs include vomiting, diarrhea, drooling, belly pain, low energy, loss of appetite and tremors.

The bulb is generally considered the most toxic part, and a loose bulb on a counter looks a lot like a toy to a dog. Plant bulbs soon after you buy them, keep pots on high shelves away from chewers, and wash your hands after handling them. Bulbs aren't food for people either, so keep them away from small children.

For more winter windowsill color, see our Christmas cactus care guide, a rosemary Christmas tree for the kitchen, and cozy winter plant corner ideas for grouping them.

Amaryllis supplies

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Frequently asked questions

How long does it take an amaryllis to bloom?

Most amaryllis bulbs bloom about 6 to 10 weeks after planting, depending on the variety and room temperature. Warmer rooms and bright light speed things up. For December flowers, plant from about mid-October to early November.

How often should I water an amaryllis?

Water thoroughly once after planting, then only lightly until you see growth. Once the stalk or leaves are growing, water when the top inch or two of potting mix is dry, and empty the saucer so the bulb never sits in water.

What do I do with my amaryllis after it blooms?

Snip off faded flowers, leave the stalk until it yellows and keep the leaves growing in your sunniest window. Water and feed monthly through spring and summer. In early fall you can rest the bulb in a cool, dark place for 8 to 12 weeks, then bring it back to warmth and light to bloom again.

Does an amaryllis need a dormant period?

Not strictly. University of Illinois Extension notes a rest isn't required, but it helps you control when the bulb blooms. Without one, the bulb may flower on its own schedule, often later in winter or spring.

Is amaryllis poisonous to cats and dogs?

Yes. The ASPCA lists amaryllis as toxic to cats and dogs. Eating it can cause vomiting, diarrhea, drooling, belly pain and tremors, and the bulb is generally considered the most toxic part. Keep it out of reach and call your vet if a pet chews it.

Why are my amaryllis leaves growing but no flowers?

Usually the bulb didn't store enough energy the year before. Keep the leaves growing in full sun and feed monthly after bloom. Small bulbs, too little light in summer and cutting leaves while they were green are common causes.

Pinterest collage of hands planting an amaryllis bulb in terracotta, a stalk sprouting by a window, red buds opening and a white amaryllis in bloom, with the text 7 Simple Amaryllis Care Steps for big holiday blooms.

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About the author

Rowan Avery, Founder & Editor

Rowan Avery is the pen name of the independent publisher who founded Herb & Hollow. Rowan isn't a trained horticulturist, so every guide is built from university extension services, USDA zone and frost-date data and seed-company growing information, with AI tools helping on research, drafts and illustrations. Each guide is checked against those sources before it goes live. Nothing here is medical advice.

Reviewed by Rowan Avery, Founder & Editor. Read our editorial guidelines.

Every Herb & Hollow guide is checked against zone, extension and safety sources and reviewed by a human editor before publishing.

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